SEA GYPSEYS OF MYANMAR

The blue waters off the Tanintharyi coast of Southern Myanmar are home to a unique group of people known as the Salons, also referred to as Moken in the Myanmar language. These nomadic individuals traverse the seas in their fragile canoes, diligently searching for sea cucumbers, pearls, and other valuable resources on the ocean floor to sustain their livelihoods. Remarkably, they possess an extraordinary ability to handle even the deadly sea urchins, which are equipped with prickly and poisonous spikes.

The Salons families embark on a continuous journey, hopping from one island to another, making their canoes their homes. They rarely set foot on land, except during the tumultuous monsoon season when the seas become rough. Their worldly possessions, including household dogs, are carefully packed into their small boats, as they wander from one deserted island to another, following the footsteps of their ancestors who embarked on similar journeys for thousands of years. This enduring tradition has earned them the esteemed title of Sea Gypsies.

The origins of the Salons are shrouded in mystery, with various theories circulating. One theory suggests that they belong to the Austronesian ethnic group. Another proposes that they migrated from southern China approximately 4,000 years ago. It is believed that in the late 17th century, while traversing what is now Malaysia, this group diverged from others and embraced the sea as their habitat. More recently, Jacques lvanoff, a French scholar who conducted extensive research on these seafaring nomads, categorized them as the spearhead of a littoral civilization that began colonizing the Taninthayi region from the south. This group sought refuge from the oppressive grip of the dominant religion and mercantilism in the region, ultimately making poverty a defining characteristic of their identity within the Malay social fabric.

One thing for sure is that they had been in the area for decades, if not centuries. Many islands in the Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago have Moken indigenous names. For instance, Kyun Mei Gyi, which is Lui in Moken spoken language, was previously known as Clara. Lebi in Moken has evolved into Lumpi, but during the colonial period, it was called Sullivan Island. Bo Cho Island, the island facing Lumpi Marine National Park, was called Pu Nala or Luark in Moken language. However, in the British Admiralty Charts, the name is Eyles. This indicates that the Salons were in this region even before the British arrived. It was only in 1783 that a British mariner, Capt. Forrest, sailed these waters and gave English names to most of these islands in the Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago. However, the Myanmar government had renamed almost all these isolated islands with Myanmar names in 1990.

Research shows that the earliest mention of these people appeared in the Calcutta Government Gazette dated March 2, 1826. Additionally, in the East India Gazetteer, vol (ii) page 226, published in London in 1928, it was mentioned that “A race of men, termed by the Burmese (Myanmar) Chalome and Pase, are to be found scattered throughout the Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago. However, their dread of Malayan and other pirates has compelled these poor creatures to adopt an unsettled mode of life.” By inference, Chalome might be what we now call Salon, and the Pase could be Pashus, a mixed Malay race.

A British author named W.G. White had also written about these Sea Gypsies in 1922. He mentioned that a Burmese King from Ava (Innwa) had invited some of these Sea Gypsies to learn how to read and write, and then sent them back.

The islands and seas that the Salons call their home are truly beautiful. There are over 800 islands in this area. Many of the islands are larger than some island nations in other parts of the world, while others are just small rocks barely above the crashing waves. Most of these islands are uninhabited, but there are also islands where large communities of squid fishers and others have settled. The common thread among these villages is the availability of fresh water. Although the islands are surrounded by water, the sea water is not suitable for drinking. One of the most important of these villages is the Ma Gyun Galet Salon (Moken) village, located on Bo Cho Island, opposite the Lumpi Marine National Park.

This village now has a mix of both Salon and other people from the mainland who have settled here. However, the most important industry here is squid fishing. The squid fishing boats are easily recognizable by their long arms attached with lights that extend over the water. These lights are lit at night (since squid fishing is mostly done at night) to lure the squids to the surface, where they are caught in nets. Another Salon village, Nyaung Yee, is located on a narrow strip of the shore. The Salons at these villages still dive into the clear blue waters to collect sea urchins and pearls using traditional methods. They can dive deep and long without any external breathing apparatus. Even the children treat the sea as their playground, somersaulting joyfully into the waves from their small rocking canoes.

However, there is a change in the air. International tourists have discovered these once-restricted areas, and now they come with live-aboard dive boats to marvel at the underwater beauty at various dive sites. It is hoped that the Salons can still preserve their traditional lifestyles and customs in this modern age.

The islands in the Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago are accessible by air from Yangon via Kawthaung. Alternatively, visitors can arrive from Ranong in Thailand to Kawthaung by boat.

Upon arrival at Kawthaung Jetty, visitors can transfer to prearranged live-aboard dive boats or hotels located on some of the islands. Currently, there are two hotels catering to international visitors: the Andaman Club Hotel at Thahtay Gyun, situated just opposite Kawthaung, and the Myanmar Andaman Resort on Khayingwa Kyun, approximately 40+ miles offshore.

Once visitors reach the islands, they have a variety of options for activities. They can go scuba diving, visit the Ma Gyun Galet and Nyaungwee Salon (Moken) villages, or explore the Lumpi Marine National Park, located opposite the Ma Gyun Galet Salon village.