On Board the MV Sea Gipsy-Exploring Asia Last Untamed Archip

For the modern traveller, finding a place where the map remains largely blank is an increasingly rare privilege. Yet, hidden in the southern reaches of the Andaman Sea, the Mergui Archipelago—locally known as the Myeik Archipelago—exists as a breathtaking exception to the era of global mass tourism. 

This vast expanse of ocean, stretching across a territory that dwarfs more famous island chains, was essentially sealed away from the outside world following the Second World War. It was only in the late 1990s that the first intrepid visitors were permitted entry, and even today the region remains largely untouched by mass tourism.

Stepping onto the shores of these islands feels like discovering a world before the invention of the resort hotel. Here, there are no crowds, no motorised traffic, and no strips of commercialised beaches. Instead, one finds a prehistoric landscape of dense, primary evergreen forests that tumble down granite cliffs into turquoise waters so clear that the coral gardens are visible from the deck of a boat. 

For those seeking distance from the hyper-connected world, the archipelago offers something increasingly rare: a place where disconnection is not imposed, but quietly inevitable—and deeply restorative.

Where Is the Mergui Archipelago?

The Mergui Archipelago is situated off the narrow panhandle of southern Myanmar, tracing the coast for roughly 400 kilometres (249 mi). It occupies a strategic and scenic position in the Andaman Sea, sitting just north of Thailand’s celebrated Surin and Similan islands. The chain begins near the port town of Myeik and extends southward to the gateway town of Kawthaung, which faces the Thai border across a broad river estuary.

While the inner islands hug the coastline, the outer reaches of the archipelago, such as the remote Boulder Island, sit nearly 85 kilometres (53 mi) away from the mainland. This distance is crucial; it places the outer islands far beyond the reach of coastal runoff, ensuring the kind of exceptional water visibility and pristine marine environments that have largely vanished from the more developed shores of Southeast Asia.

The southernmost access point, Kawthaung, sits directly opposite Thailand’s Ranong province across the Pakchan River, one of Southeast Asia’s most active yet least remarked border crossings.

A Landscape of Infinite Scale

The sheer scale of this region is difficult to grasp until one sees it from above. Comprising over 800 individual islands, atolls, and limestone outcrops, the archipelago covers a sprawling 36,000 square kilometres (13,900 sq mi)—an area roughly the size of Taiwan or vast enough to dwarf even Thailand’s largest island, Phuket. Despite this immense geography, it remains one of the least-populated marine regions on Earth.

While nearby Phuket in Thailand attracts millions of visitors annually, the Mergui Archipelago sees only a tiny fraction of that number—estimated to be a few thousand overnight visitors per year. The logistics of visiting are naturally self-limiting; there are only a handful of operating eco-resorts, including Boulder Island, Nyaung Oo Phee Island, Pila Island, and Wa Ale Island, and the government strictly regulates the number of vessels permitted to navigate these waters. This scarcity of infrastructure has served as a natural barrier, preserving the "untouched" character of the islands.

A Sanctuary of Fauna and Flora: Marine and Terrestrial Biodiversity

The isolation of the Mergui has allowed it to function as a vital sanctuary for species that are increasingly threatened elsewhere in Asia. Much of this life is centred around Lampi Island, the region’s only marine national park and a designated ASEAN Heritage Park. The island’s perennial rivers and extensive mangrove systems provide a nursery for a staggering 333 species of plankton and countless juvenile fish.

In the forests, the biodiversity is equally startling. The islands are home to the Sunda pangolin and the lesser mouse deer—the world’s smallest hoofed mammal. Birdwatchers can spot over 250 species, including the Nicobar pigeon, the plain-pouched hornbill, and the white-bellied sea eagle.

Beneath the waves, the archipelago’s reefs are a kaleidoscope of life. Divers and snorkellers may encounter whale sharks, dugongs, and occasionally larger pelagic species such as manta rays and, on rare occasions, migrating whales. Perhaps most significantly, the islands serve as a critical nesting ground for endangered sea turtles. Marine biologists have discovered that the leatherback turtles returning to these shores belong to a lineage now functionally absent from much of the mainland coastline, making these protected beaches essential for the species' survival.

A World Largely Untouched by Development

One of the primary reasons the Mergui remains so wild is the scarcity of reliable fresh water. Very few islands possess permanent streams, which has historically prevented the establishment of large-scale settlements. Consequently, most islands have no roads, no power grids, and no permanent buildings.

The few developments that do exist are pioneers of sustainable tourism. The Boulder Bay Eco Resort, for example, was constructed using wood recycled from old boats and warehouses to avoid felling the island’s trees. The entire facility runs on solar power, and staff work tirelessly to remove the vast accumulation of plastic debris carried in by monsoon-driven currents. This conservation-led approach is vital; in recent decades, the region has suffered from illegal dynamite fishing and industrial trawling, but new "no-take" zones and coral restoration projects are helping the reefs to regenerate.

Kawthaung: The Bustling Gateway

For most travellers, the journey begins in Kawthaung, Myanmar’s southernmost town. Formerly known by the British as Victoria Point, it is a bustling, colourful port town that serves as the economic bridge between Myanmar and Thailand. The town is a sensory experience: the air smells of fish sauce and diesel, and the streets are lined with vendors selling steaming bowls of mohinga soup and handmade samosas.

Kawthaung is more than just a transit point; it is a community of resilient, friendly people representing a mosaic of Myanmar’s diverse ethnic groups. Visitors can explore the Pyi Daw Aye Pagoda, which offers panoramic views of the harbour, or wander through neighbourhoods of stilted houses where children play in the water at high tide. Despite its rough-edged port character, Kawthaung remains remarkably open to outsiders, where curiosity tends to flow both ways in a town still unaccustomed to foreign visitors.

Life Aboard the Sea Gipsy

Because hotels are virtually non-existent, the true magic of the Mergui is unlocked only by sea. Vessels like the MV Sea Gipsy, a traditional wooden Burmese cargo vessel lovingly refitted for small-scale cruising, offer a rare kind of “sea safari”—one that allows travellers to drift from one uninhabited island to the next.

Designed for the tropical climate, the boat’s open-air gazebo layout dissolves the boundary between guest and nature. There are no enclosed cabins here. Instead, travellers sleep on deck behind simple privacy curtains and mosquito nets, lulled by the night breeze, the gentle movement of the sea, and a sky so clear and star-filled it feels almost unreal. It is a way of travelling that has all but vanished from the modern world—and one that turns the journey itself into the destination.

Life on the Sea Gipsy follows the rhythm of the tides rather than a clock. Days are spent kayaking through silent mangrove cathedrals, trekking untouched jungle trails, or snorkelling in crystal-clear coves where parrotfish dart through healthy coral gardens. As evening falls, the crew serves fresh barracuda and tropical fruit on deck, the boat falling silent as the sun paints the Andaman sky in deep crimsons and violets.

The Moken: Souls of the Archipelago

The true souls of the archipelago are the Moken (sometimes referred to as "sea gypsies"). A semi-nomadic ethnic minority, the Moken have lived in these waters for over four thousand years. Traditionally, they spent most of the year living on kabangs—traditional dugout canoes hand-carved from a single tree trunk—and only moved to stilted land settlements during the monsoon season.

The Moken are legendary for their physiological adaptations to the ocean; they are exceptional free-divers, capable of seeing clearly underwater and holding their breath for extended periods to forage on the seabed. However, their way of life is under threat from modern borders, declining fish stocks, and government efforts to settle them permanently. Despite these challenges, their connection to the sea remains profound, and a visit to a Moken village offers a humbling glimpse into a culture that takes only what it needs from the environment.

Today, the Moken face ongoing challenges from modernisation, border restrictions, and environmental changes, yet their deep connection to the sea endures.

Practicalities

Planning a trip to this remote frontier requires careful preparation:

• When to Go: The region is strictly seasonal. Resorts and boats operate from October to April. The optimal window is between December and March, when the seas are calmest and visibility is highest. During the monsoon (May to September), the region is closed to tourism due to rough seas and heavy rain.
• Visas: Most travellers need a Myanmar tourist eVisa (apply online at evisa.moip.gov.mm for about US$50; processing 3 days). It allows a 28-day stay and requires proof of registered accommodation or boat cruise booking. Multi-day cruises require additional archipelago permits, usually arranged by your operator (allow 2-4 weeks). Independent travel remains prohibited
• Access: The easiest route is via Ranong,  Thailand. From Bangkok, you can take a flight or an overnight bus to Ranong, then a 20-minute long-tail boat ride across the river to Kawthaung.
• Money: Cash is essential, but you won't  need much. Thai Baht is widely accepted in Kawthaung and is perfect for buying local fruit, snacks, or last-minute essentials before departure.  Once on board the Sea Gipsy, the only extra costs are for specialty drinks (beer, etc.), which can be paid for in Thai Baht or USD. If you choose to  bring US Dollars, the bills must be in pristine, "brand-new" condition. Notes with even minor creases, marks, stamps, or tears are  generally rejected across Myanmar.
• Communication: Expect to be offline. Internet is sporadic at resorts and non-existent once you set sail.
• Current Considerations: While Myanmar continues to face political challenges in many areas, the southern Mergui Archipelago, its islands, and the gateway town of Kawthaung have remained very peaceful and unaffected by the ongoing turmoil elsewhere in the country. Many experienced liveaboard operators continue to run safe cruises here, with access typically via the open Thailand-Myanmar border  at Ranong-Kawthaung. Low-volume tourism directly supports local  communities. Independent travel is not possible; visitors must join  organised, licensed cruises.

The Privilege of Witnessing

The Mergui Archipelago is a living time capsule, a place where the natural world still holds dominion over human development. It is a region of stark contrasts: the rugged beauty of limestone boulders against soft white sand, the resilience of the Burmese and Moken people, and the fragility of a marine ecosystem facing the pressures of the modern world.

For the independent traveller, a journey here is not merely a vacation but an act of support for a community that desperately needs sustainable tourism to thrive. To visit the Mergui is to step back into a simpler era and to take on the responsibility of a witness—to see a paradise that is as breathtaking as it is precarious.

For those seeking a journey beyond the ordinary, the MV Sea Gipsy offers a rare opportunity to connect with nature, culture, and the sea in its purest form—inviting travellers to experience the archipelago slowly, thoughtfully, and by design.